Lots of people have asked about getting a chassis, the challenge of doing the metal work and locating all of the parts.  We have provided complete parts lists, that are up to date (but not yet posted).  From the INDEX page, you can click on each board to see what it looks like (before and after) along with its parts list and schematic.  To view the parts list, PC users will need an Excel Viewer. Click here to download the free EXCEL 2003 Viewer.


If you've never done metal work before and you want the project to come out well and not lose any fingers in the process, here are two options...

Front Panel Express can fabricate the front panel.  They like to work with Aluminum and prefer to use their own stock.  You should choose an aluminum chassis because it will have the least interaction with the transformer as Steel tends to "buzz" depending on how the transformer is mounted. 

Par Metal Products makes rack mount boxes of various sizes.  Again, Aluminum is your choice both for minimum transformer interaction as well as its relative softness compared to steel.  It's easy to work with.

Whoever is the first to get metal work done might consider sharing with the rest, just in case everyone happens to use the same parts.

ATR Service can supply MODUTEC METERS that are nearly identical to those used in the UREI LA-4.  Your cost should be well under $100 depending on condition.  These meters have been pulled from Ampex MM1200 machines that have been scrapped for parts.  UREI / JBL can supply mounting hardware for these meters at 818-894-8850 or 818-893-8411.  I have not recentl;y confirmed these numbers, but will investigate.  (ec)  The Modutec mounting hardware includes meter facia (outside trim with mounting flanges) and a pair of threaded "T" nuts with headless screws.  I will try to determine the part numbers as they are not in the service manual. (ec)

Scott has completed the intstructions and I believe the actual assembly of the circuit boards will be quite easy.  You do have to know how to solder - that tutorial is my job - and though it is not completed, I am in the process of teaching aspiring students to solder and that has been an eye opener.  I saw all of the potential problems first hand.

The Weller WLC100 soldering iron, recommended on my Essential Tools page, is an acceptable iron.  Set the temperature range just above "3" (the 12:30 position), dampen the sponge with water, always refresh the tip with new solder and use a tip cleaner if the tip changes from its original shiney state to dull and crusty.

You must also have a respect for electricity.  That said, if you have questions, please ask.  Remember the carpenter's rule, "Measure Twice, Cut Once."  Patience and a calm, non-distracted approach wlll yield better results.